Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Rational Pastry Cream

I've been using some of Michael Ruhlmans' rational (as "in the form of ratios" but meant as a double entendre) recipes to prepare a few of the basic (as in foundational) things that I've been cooking. Last night I made Pastry Cream or as they call it in Hati, Montreal and even in France, "Crème pâtissière."

While some folks might be inclined to shove their faces into the pot and siphon this sweet densely textured, highly aromatic of super premium conflict-free Indonesian artisan-grown vanilla bean (I'm kidding, I've no idea where the beans came from.), I plan to use it to fill profiteroles once it has been loosened up with whipped cream.

Here is Ruhlman's recipe. It is essentially the same recipe for pastry cream that appears in Ratio except that I included the weight of the cornstarch (he gave volume measure : 6TBS) and the technique used to combine it with the other ingredients (He suggests making a slurry, I beat it into the egg and sugar mixture dry).

All ingredients are weighed except the vanilla bean.

milk 8 z
heavy cream 8z
vanilla bean, split* 1 each

Sugar 4z
Egg yolk 4z
Cornstarch 1.75 z
Butter 2z

1) combine milk, cream and vanilla bean in sauce pan and heat to approx. 190 degrees F

2) beat/ whisk sugar, then cornstarch into egg yolk

3) beat/whisk approx 6 fl oz hot milk into yolk mixture

4) combine remaining milk with egg, return to pot, put on low-medium fire and stir with wooden spoon/paddle until thick

5) whisk in butter

6) store in container with plastic film or parchment applied directly to surface to prevent skin from forming

*split along the long axis/lengthwise so the seeds will spill into the mixture

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Tags said...

Do you eat that stuff? I thought you were a sugarshunatarian. I guess that means I make can make you my nonsectarian apple cake, then.

Bob del Grosso said...

Don't conflate cooking with eating. I doubt I'll eat much of any of this when the day is done. I'm slightly eccentric in that I get far more pleasure from cooking than I do eating...

Tags said...

Alright, no conflation.

Can I convolute them, just this once?

pantagruel55 said...

Having been trained in classical pastry, I bemoan the fact that the use of pure Crème Pâtissière has gone out of fashion. Most pastry chefs now lighten the load, just as you are doing, with a little whipped cream, the combination of which is known as Crème Chiboust.

michaelj @

Tags said...

If I'm not mistaken, chibouste is made with Italian meringue and pastry cream.

Trig said...

I never made crème Chiboust during my spell as Pastry Chef, but then it would have been a bit too French and far too sweet for most of the kitchens in Spain. Have a great Christmas, whatever you are cooking and/or eating. Best regards.

Natalie Sztern said...

Ahhh cette un Noel rempli des friandises dans la maison Del Grosso...mais si tu ne mange pas les gateaux il ne sera pas une bonne annee....just kidding I have no idea what I just said, except that to have a good New Year, you must eat something sweet.

Merry Xmas and thanks for the writing of this blog this year..

Carri said...

Pastry cream is the unsung hero in the sweet kitchen! Perfect for the holidays, in fact, I think I'll make some right now. Thanks, Bob...and a Happy, Happy Holiday to you and your family!

Jessika said...

I make creme chiboust regularly. I have a regular craving for st. honoré cake and it is indeed warm italian meringue mixed with creme patisserie. Usually you whip italian meringue intil it cools but not while making chiboust cream.