Recently they have tried to convince us that hamburgers are worthy of endless permutations, concomitant criticism and marketing buzz. Now it looks like the hipsters of the restaurant establishment are gearing up to turn pizza into an "it" food. Yawn. What is going to be next, hot dogs or salad perhaps?
Of course I know that these trends involving gussied up low food cost products are fueled by economic necessity. And I certainly have nothing but respect for the people who make the stuff well. It is the sturm und drang of the critics and consumers that I find so tedious in its sameness from fad to fad.
Critic’s Notebook - The Cult of the Artisanal Pizza