Thus Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, its full name as printed on my bill, charged £252 for a three-course lunch for two, the only alcoholic drink being a bucks fizz. I don’t normally care about bills, even though I pay them myself without reimbursement. But this one had me reeling, and writhing.
I went with my delightful friend Adam Kenwright who owns London’s second largest theatre advertising agency. I’m sure he’ll overtake the number one spot currently held by Dewynters. He deserves to.
The Ducasse room has been widely criticised, as has its food. I found the premises very pleasant. The private “room”, a kind of white, sparkling tent, annoyed some people. I liked it. But not much else.
They offered dreadful Tufa water from Somerset. “You’re a French restaurant, why can’t you do Evian?” I asked. So they produced Evian.
Adam drank some Tufa and said, “It tastes like tap water.” Of the Evian he said, “That’s different altogether.” He was right. All this baloney about how marvellous it is to drink tap water is rubbish. It was rightly condemned by a real expert, the food guru Egon Ronay.
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